Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Review of Tonkotsu Itto (Ramen Champion - Bugis+)

Tonkotsu Itto is one of the newest competitors at Ramen Champion's outlet in Bugis+ and takes over the spot vacated by Ikkousha which has ventured into Tanjong Pagar with their own shop. Hailing from Tokyo, Tonkotsu Itto's specialty is in tonkotsu ramen rather than the usual soy-sauce flavour chicken-based broth which is a bit unusual considering its origins. And precisely because it is now occupying Ikkousha's previous spot and sells a similar style of ramen like theirs, I find myself comparing Itto's version with Ikkousha's somewhat unconsciously.

It was a pretty quiet Saturday afternoon when I visited so there wasn't any queue at most, if not all of the stalls. Ordering was a breeze but the time taken to prepare the ramen was somewhat longer than expected. I wonder if it had been that the stoves were turned off during the afternoon lull and the staff needed some time to get the right temperature to cook the ramen. Anyway, the wait wasn't that unbearable but it was a surprise to get a bowl of ramen which felt somewhat lukewarm instead of piping hot. And I certainly don't think I took such a long time to take pictures that it lost its warmth so rapidly so the lukewarm serving was probably deliberate.

At first sip, the soup felt somewhat close to Ikkousha's standard but a bit toned down. For people who don't like their tonkotsu soup to be too rich, Itto's version would suit you better. Coupled with the sesame seeds (you can help yourself to them at the counter), it brings out a nice fragrance in the broth. However, I thought that the body of the soup wasn't consistent because when I got to the bottom of the bowl, the flavour turned out to be quite bland instead of the other way round. I'm not sure if there was a conscious effort in trying to change the original taste to suit local taste buds but I think Itto's version of the soup wasn't as memorable as Santouka's or Keisuke's although I admit the latter two can tend to be a bit oily depending on what you order.

As for the noodles, I thought it wasn't cooked thoroughly and with the crunchy black fungus, it was a different type of texture I had never experienced before. Most noodles tend to be infused with the broth and could be slurped up very smoothly. Itto may have wanted the noodles to avoid being overcooked and coordinate with the black fungus to give a surprise to their customers but personally, I prefer my noodles to be flavourful and not overcooked at the same time. Itto scores in the texture aspect but taste-wise, the noodles felt rather bland if you try to eat it on its own without the broth.

With regard to the chashu, I think it's of a good thickness and quite tender. However, that's also its slight flaw because Itto's version of the chashu at this standard can be easily found elsewhere and it needs a stronger distinguishing factor in this item to win over fans who are meat lovers.

On the whole, I think Itto's version of the ramen is good in its own way but in order to stand out from the competition, there is a need to have a stronger selling point in order to catch the attention of those who go to Ramen Champion. Being situated right inside the restaurant has its challenges because people can easily bypass you. To win like what Ikkousha achieved, Itto must find their selling point and capitalise on it. It's as if Itto is an all-rounder right now with credible performance in every aspect but if I have to name something they are very good at, I struggle to come up with an answer.

Last but not least, my favourite side dish whenever I have ramen. Just like Itto's ramen, I also struggle to find fault with this dish. It's not bad yet not superbly interesting to entice me back. One bugbear I have with their gyoza is probably the lack of consistency when it comes to cooking them. As you can see from the photo, the first gyoza didn't have that golden brown skin as seen in the other pieces which seems to suggest uneven cooking. Some of the pieces were even charred at the edges. I like my gyoza to be crispy and yet succulent at the same time which is seriously a huge challenge so that's why I can't  find a version to date which has truly awed me beyond words. Despite the less-than-desirable appearance, the quality of the taste is still acceptable but I think the filling needs a bit more seasoning. If you dip it in the chili oil and vinegar, it easily overwhelms the palette and you really can't taste what's inside the gyoza because it is beaten hands down in terms of flavour.

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